Beaujolais Nouveau come out on the third Thursday of November so it inconveniently falls between issues but Wackus Bacchus tells us why he enjoys it and tastes 2015 wines
Nouveau has been much maligned but I’m still a great fan of well made examples. People often belittle Beaujolais Nouveau. But why? It’s fun, it’s fleeting, frivolous and delicious. It arrives in a much less hyped fanfare than in its heyday and puts a smile on drinkers’ faces for a few weeks.
I like Beaujolais, and I thought about looking at the region from a different perspective. So we are talking the top level from the charming, rolling-hill region known as Beaujolais, just North of Lyon, those wines known as ‘Cru’. These are ten, labelled by the village name around which the vines grow. Fleurie, Morgon, Julienas, St Amour, Brouilly, Cotes de Brouilly, Chenas, Regnie, Moulin a Vent and Chiroubles. There’s a renewed interest in wines like this and the former poor-relation of the Burgundy Appellation is on the up. Unlike it’s more prestigious (and expensive) Northern neighbours, wines from Beaujolais are made from the Gamay grape, not Pinot Noir. This makes them different in an interesting way. Gamay makes wines which are lighter, more approachable, fruity and in the hands of a skilled winemaker, no less complex or appealing. The wines are versatile and can be paired with a wide range of culinary delights, their lightness and fruitiness particularly delicious for lunchtime.
Beaujolais was also the backdrop to the hilarious Clochemerle series written by Galton and Simpson and adapted from the French Comic novel – take a look on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkWSj18T4LY
DVD available from www.acorndvd.com
The wines
Beaujolais Lantignié 2015 Louis Jadot, Majestic £11.99 /£8.99 (not one of the 10 Cru but a lovely wine)
Deep crimson, lovely perfumed almost rose-like bouquet. Silky palate with cherry flavours
St Amour 2015 Domain Piron, £13 M&S
Intense colour,restrained fragrant nose, strawberries and red fruit on the palate, soft but with real backbone.
Fleurie Chanson Père et Fils 2013 £11.99, or £10.49 on Mix Six 25th October – 30th January Majestic
Almost tawny red, mellow stewed rhubarb nose, real depth of flavour, mature for more classical drinkers
Fleurie 2015, £11.00 M&S
Bright red, up and at you bursting with fruit on both nose and palate. Powerful flavours.
Morgon Château de Pizay 2015 £10.99, or £9.89 on Mix Six 25th October – 30th January Majestic
Deep, dark brooding colour. Complex aromas with beautiful balance of fruit and structure.
Louis Tete Brouilly 2015, £11.00 M&S
Deep, dense red. Delicate restrained nose with lovely ripe fruit, texture and intensity on the palate.
Domaine des Bassets 2015 Morgon, Beaujolais £11.99 Waitrose
Bright crimson, delicate cherry aromas. A more traditional almost rustic style, with big fruit and well-structured tannins.