Rioja seems to strike a chord with the average Brit. There’s a certain softness to it but weight and flavour too, that make it a very approachable red wine.
There seems to be a common perception that it pairs extremely well with roast lamb so what better time than Easter with new season’s Spring just becoming available?
I remember my first visit to Rioja in the early eighties. Its beautiful wine country in Northern Spain, with vineyards along the valley of the Ebro river. It seemed odd that at breakfast we were asked if lamb would be acceptable for lunch. I wasn’t used to the mealtimes in Spain but when we finally sat down to lunch at after 3pm it emerged that the lamb had been specially selected that morning for the distinguished guests. Not for the squeamish, but my first taste of Rioja with lamb was unequivocally delicious.
There’s a whole hierarchy of Riojas from the simple to Grand Reserva, all with differing periods in oak and bottle and about as confusing as your times tables and too long for this page. I’ve always thought that Basic for every day and Crianza (1 year oak, 1 bottle) for the weekend were the best options, so we thought we’d put the theory to the test this month.
Wackus Bacchus
Rioja Bodegas Age 2015 M&S
Youthful crimson hue, savoury nose, slightly raisined fruit on the palate and rather developed for a wine described as ‘best enjoyed young’ on the back label. One for the traditionalists rather than modernistas. In stores mid March
Baron de Ley Club Privado Rioja 2015 Waitrose £10.99
Again youthful ruby red, attractive coconut and vanilla aromas. Very soft, appealing attack, with a lovely subtle combination of oak and fruit and nice long finish. Delicious, but hardly ‘basic’ at the price, but worth the money!
CUNE Rioja Crianza 2014 Majestic £8.99
Bright ruby showing a little development. Likewise clean, developed nose, with aromas of blackcurrant and cedarwood. Chunky fruit combined with robust tannins on the palate, with firm long finish. Traditional style Rioja from a long established producer. Needs food.
Vina Lorea Rioja Crianza 2014 Waitrose £9.99
Light ruby, with a hint of development. Clean, slightly shy, coconut nose. Very smooth, attractive fruit on the attack and silky tannins on the finish. Not surprisingly traditional, as it’s made by CUNE, the same producer as above.
Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2013 Majestic £10.99
Deep crimson colour. Discreet but very pure nose, strawberry and vanilla. Like velvet on the attack, with lush fruit and savoury layers of complexity, nicely rounded of with a sweet, vanilla and tobacco finish. Benchmark Crianza and great value if you buy 6 @£8.99
Romeral Rioja Crianza 2014 M&S £12
Deep ruby, youthful looking. Slightly shy crushed blueberry aromas, combined with gentle cedarwood. Round and silky smooth on the attack, with a nicely integrated mellow fruit and oak combination. It even suggests lamb on the back label, must be right!